La Recette du Jour

Ratatouille makes it a real pleasure to be vegetarian. Don’t get me wrong; far too often, “ratatouille” is a mushy, tomatoey mess swimming in red, slightly sour juices. Sometimes it even has carrots in it. That is not the dish I’m talking about. The real thing is a lot more work, but well worth the effort –especially as it’s even better when left overnight. It’s equally good hot or at room temperature, as a main course or as an accompaniment to grilled or roast lamb for confirmed carnivores.

I learned to do it decades ago from that holy bible of French cuisine, Mastering the Art of French Cooking, by Beck, Bertholle, and Child. Even Julia and her friends, who are no strangers to hard work, admit it’s a lot of effort. But my very first attempt at their recipe proved how worthwhile the extra work was and now I never do it any other way. As with moussaka and lasagne, I do generally make more than we intend to eat, and either eat the leftovers the following day, or freeze them.

Recipe for Ratatouille »

A traditional Scottish dish; I love them slathered with plenty of butter and honey, but you could eat them with bacon and egg for breakfast too.

Recipe for Potato scones »

A typically simple dish from the Roux brothers, one where the ingredients “ont le gout de ce qu’ils sont”, as Curnonsky said. You need proper ripe tomatoes for this, and the best olive oil you can lay your hands on (I used the last of our designer Tuscan oil). It requires no last-minute attention and can be served hot or at room temperature, so it’s good for entertaining.

Serve with grilled or roast meat, or just on their own, with good bread to mop up the juice. Keep any left-over juice to add to salad dressings or sauces.

Source: the Roux brothers’ French Country Cooking.

Recipe for Tomatoes stewed in olive oil »

Someone asked today how to make a gratin dauphinois without the cream separating and going oily. This is Edouard de Pomiane’s answer. However, I often leave out the flour with no ill effect. He specifies white Dutch potatoes — I’m not sure what he means by this, but I generally use waxy ones, as that’s about all we can get round here. Quantities are not very exact.

Recipe for Le vrai gratin dauphinois »

This recipe comes from the “Great Yorkshire Pudding Contest” held in Leeds, as recounted by Jane Grigson in “English Food”. Five native chefs were humiliated by Mr Tin Sung Chan from the Chopsticks Restaurant, who took the top prize with this unorthodox recipe. His pudding, wrote the Guardian’s reporter, “rose to the height of a coronation crown and its taste, according to one of the judges, was superb.”

If you are in the habit of making Yorkshire pudding, you will find the proportions a bit bizarre. But if your puddings always sag, this recipe is definitely worth a try!

Recipe for The Prize-winning Chinese Yorkshire Pudding »

From Richard Olney’s ‘Simple French Food’. There’s nothing simple about many of his recipes, or his convoluted prose, but this is an exception to the rule.

Recipe for Pommes de terre en daube »

A versatile dish that’s a good way of using up a glut of tomatoes.

Recipe for Peperonata »

Recipe for Fèves aux lardons »

An excellent accompaniment to a roast. A useful characteristic of this recipe when entertaining is that you can cook the potatoes in advance, and then just put them in the oven for 10-15 minutes while the meat is resting.

Recipe for Creamy roast potatoes »

As recorded in a Yorkshire kitchen. Photos taken in haste, they are too good to leave hanging around!

Recipe for Yorkshire Pudding »